8000 m Peaks




8 0 0 0 m P e a k s

Vladislav did not have the time to write all the details of his experience climbing the 14 highest peaks in the world, he was occupied with climbing them. On two of the most difficult and dangerous mountains, Annapurna and Manaslu, he pioneered new routes to the summit. He skied down from the top of Cho-Oyu and from 7400 m on Shishapangma. He videoed many of his expeditions… and his effort, his success and our record of those climbs make this world better, one man’s dedication and reliability reveal the world as a more inspiring place. He achieved success on each of these peaks without the use of supplementary oxygen.
	Makalu 8481 m 17.05.2004, by the West Buttress (Paragot ridge), as a member of team Kazakhstan expedition. Disappeared during the way down to the high camp.
	Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) 8068 m 23.07.2003, normal route, Ukrainian National Expedition. "The Mountain began to cripple and kill us and we trampled our way simply and primitively..."
	Dhaulagiri 8167 m 17.10.2002, via the classical route on North-East ridge, with V. Pestrikov, on the permit of a French expedition. "The mountain actually justified its name - White Goddess. I had never ploughed through so much snow. Constantly our steps set off avalanches as we struggled to find a passable way…"
	Lhotse 8516 m 18.05.2002, normal route, couloir of North-West face, Ukrainian expedition of alpine club “Odessa” "The fourth highest mountain in the world was pretty kind to us. It was pleasant and no problem to climb …"
	Manaslu 8163 m 22.05.2001, South-East ridge, a new route, Ukrainian National Expedition. "After exhausting work on the route, by a miracle there was an interval of good weather, “Go to the monasteries and pray to keep the weather” - it was a cry from our hearts to those staying in Base Camp …"
	Cho Oyu 8201 m 09.10.2000, classical route, West face, solo, alpine style accent in two days, skied down from the summit. "The season was over and I went alone in alpine style. In two days I reached the summit. From there I skied down. Certainly on that descent I felt absolute loneliness among those endless snow ranges. Later, I learned that numbers of binoculars were watching me from Base Camp, those eyes following each and every turn…"
	Shishapangma 8013 m 27.09.2000, classical route from the North face, skied down from 7400m, Ukrainian National Expedition. "Of all the expeditions attempting the mountain, we arrived last at Base Camp and we were the first in the season to summit the eight-thousander …"
	Everest 8848 m 08.05.1999, along the North-East ridge via the North Col, Ukrainian National Expedition. "From the beginning everything went well. We were full of strength and energy and hurried to reach the summit. No one imagined that everything could change completely…"
	Nanga Parbat 8125 m 31.07.1997, by the Diamir face, Ukrainian Expedition. "At the end of daylight, Sergey Bershov and I went up to the top. Then there was a difficult night descending …"
	Annapurna 8091 m 20.10.1996, new route along the North-West Spur, Polish International Expedition. "There was so much snow on the slopes that to go by the normal route was madness, so we were forced to chose a new, safer way. On 90% of the route I was the lead climber; the rest of our way was tracked first by my partner Anjey Marcenyak. It was epic work! We lived on this mountain for two months, working hard on the route every day. It was extremely intensive labor..."
	Gasherbrum II 8035 m 24.07.1996, classical route, International Expedition. "That summer there were numerous expeditions trying to reach the summit, but the mountain had not admitted anyone beyond Camp 2. Many people felt nervous and irritation prevailed in Base Camp. I faced a personal grudge for using the fixed ropes to Camp 2 and other teams proposed I pay for my use. In response, I offered to buy the trail I tracked from Camp 2 to Camp 4. Later I reset the fixed ropes to C2, a little bit to the right in a safer place …"
	Broad Peak 8047 m 03.07.1995, normal route, West edge and North ridge International Expedition. "There remained 50 meters to the summit and it was towards evening. I asked my partner: - What shall we do? We would have a night descent, frostbite was possible… - Let’s go to the summit, – replied fifty-four-year old Alexander Vlasenko …"
	K-2 8611 m 23.07.1994, Abruzzi route, Odessa alpine club expedition "We found the bodies of our friends two hundred meters before the summit. The climbing lost any sense…"
	Kanchenjunga 8586 m 23.05.1993, 23.05.1993 by East ridge from Sikkim, Indian-Ukrainian Expedition. ”It was my the first eight thousander - technically difficult, and safety problematic on thr route..."

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photo from archives of V.Terzyul and the authors of the papers
special thanks to Linda Wylie and Julie Kandyba for English version editing
and to "Climbers for Peace" from Northern California for support
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